Palenque Ruins

Palenque ruins; steeped in jungle 

The ruins in Palenque are just a few kilometres from the town of Palenque. There are some lovely hotels both inside and on the outskirts of the National park in which Palenque is situated, as well as El Panchan (see blogpost). Two people can get a basic room for around $250 pesos. I can recommend hotel Canek, near the park in the town (the owners are a lovely friendly couple, the hotel has a nice terrace, comes with internet and is fresh and clean) and hotel Jaguar at el Panchan.

Palenque town

Entrance to the National park is 28 pesos, with an additional 59 pesos to enter the ruins and/or museum. I recommend 2-3 hours to explore the ruins.... we wore casual clothes and flip flops but I would recommend sneakers or walking boots, as there are a fair few steps to climb, and as the ruins and still swathed in jungle, it can get slippery after a little rain.

Palenque Ruins 

Souvenirs are cheaper in Palenque (at the ruins and in the town) than the other places we visited (Merida, Piste/Chichen Itza and Tulum), so stock up now; as its the same things across Yucatan.

In the town itself, there's not so much to do, but in the Palenque area you can partake in a host of traditional Mexican rituals, such as Peyote and Temezcal.... I have contact details for a local guy who hosts such ceremonies; and carries out the same ritual whether its for local, tourists or friends. 

El Panchan, Palenque 

Supposedly a 'legendary hippie hangout', this small collection of cabanas and restaurants nestled in the jungle on the outskirts of the Palenque National park is beautiful, but really just to pass the nights while you explore the National park and ruins.

For someone who loves nature, and the jungle, there is far too much concrete going on here and not enough spots to just sit and enjoy nature. There are two main restaurants and one small eatery - the staff of all three can be rude and tip-grabbing. The rooms are all pretty basic and all smell damp and there is an abundance of mosquitoes, despite there being a beautiful fresh water stream running through the place (probably due to all the concrete and tiling throughout the place).

Having said that, the stream that does run through El Panchan really is beautiful, and despite there being so many people, and live music every evening; there is an astounding array of wildlife. The howler monkeys can be seen (and heard) in very close proximity, as well as various birds, butterflies and creatures in and around the stream.

We met some wonderful locals and I was invited to a beautiful Mayan ceremony for day of the dead; where I learnt a lot about the culture of the Maya and how it is being revived; as well as hearing the most beautiful singing and drumming.

The local area is definitely a mystical place, bursting with energy, and I will certainly be returning; and despite its concrete and bad waiting staff, will probably be staying in El Panchan again!

In conclusion, this place is in a beautiful setting with amazing wildlife everywhere you look, and some interesting and insightful locals. In my opinion it needs a real 're-naturising'; with concrete and old disused structures being removed, trash being picked up, and some more natural structures being built.

Guatemala to Mexico

Flores (Santa Elena) to Palenque

One  route into Mexico from Guatemala is to take a minibus from Santa Elena to Bethel/ Fronterra de Corazol border, a small boat across the river into Mexico, a taxi to the bus terminal (stopping at border control) and a minibus onto Palenque.

Leave early because it takes a good six hours from Santa Elena to the border and border control closes at 5 so you will not be able to cross if you arrive after around 4:30pm and the border town of la Tecnica is not somewhere you want to spend any amount of time; especially overnight.

The whole journey should cost less than 300Q. Don't pay the whole ticket in advance at the terminal, because although it can work out fine, what happens is that you pay the agency, who gives some to the minibus driver from Santa Elena, who passes money to a man at the Guatemalan border, who passes money to the boat driver, who then passes money to a taxi driver the other side, who takes you to the terminal where you make your last leg of the journey. This is where people report being short; and at this point there is nothing you can do. You are in Mexico, your ticket is from Guatemala, the taxi driver simply tells you this is what he has been given to pay for your bus, that there is not enough and that you need to pay the rest. As money has changed hands so many times, you have no way of figuring out who took the money where; not that you could do anything at this point. To cut a long story short, pay each leg of the journey yourself, individually. Your ticket may look official but is only really good for the first minibus you get on for the border. You have been warned.